HIBERNATION...what should you do?
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HIBERNATION...what should you do?
I found this on the american site and thought i'd post it here as there have been loads of hibernation attempts lately. could it possibly be made a sticky?
Tis the season
... for hibernation attempts.
This is a reminder to everyone that if you haven't already done so, to get a heating and lighting system in place for your hedgehog.
Do you have an accurate digital thermostat? This is high priority and nobody can accurately guess the temperature of the hedgehogs cage without one. A thermometer should be one of the first things purchased before you get a hedgehog.
Is the area hedgie is in draft free, away from windows, off floor level and preferably on an inside wall. Regardless of how new your windows are, in front of a window is cooler than away from a window. Floor level is the coldest part of a room. Sitting the cage on a table is a warmer location. Exterior walls are always cooler than an interior wall. Draft zones are near the bottom of stairways, near windows, floor level, near furnace ducts, and near outside doors.
Temperature is important. Although it is generally recommended they need temperatures at or above 73F/23C, this is often not warm enough. Most hedgehogs seem to like 75F/24C but there are some that even this is not warm enough. Each hedgehog is individual and just because it's parents or siblings are comfortable at 73, doesn't mean yours will be. If a breeder tells you their hedgehogs are fine without extra warmth, don't pay attention. Most hedgehogs are not fine at the temperatures most of us keep our houses at.
Using supplemental lighting is a must at this time of year. With shorter days, less intense sunlight, and more dull dark days, light coming in a window is not enough. All that is required is to leave a light on near the cage from 7ish am until 9ish pm. Some people recommend a broad spectrum light and this is fine to use but a regular light will work as well. Some hedgehogs are really light sensitive and will attempt hibernation if they are not getting enough light. Even though they are in their dark hedgie bag or igloo, they still must have adequate light. It's best to either put the light on a timer, or make sure you remember to turn the light on.
Signs of hibernation or being too cool
If your hedgehog is in a full hibernation attempt it will be in a curled up quilly ball and be unresponsive. Cold radiates from their body. This is serious and the hedgehog needs to be warmed up immediately but slowly.
Put hedgie under your clothing so he can warm up slowly. If you have a human heating pad, you can set it on low, lay it on your lap and set hedgie on it. Make sure hedgie is not warming up too quickly. NEVER leave an unresponsive hedgehog on a heating pad or any heating device.
Depending on how long hedgie has been trying to hibernate, he may come out of it within a few minutes or it could be half an hour or more. If hedgie is not responding within 45 to 60 minutes of warming, he needs to see a vet immediately. This is an emergency life and death situation.
When hedgie first comes out of it, he will be wobbly on his feet and be a bit disoriented. This should go away fairly soon.
After hedgie has attempted hibernation, his cage needs to be kept a couple of degrees warmer. The chance of him attempting it again within the next week or two is high so make sure he doesn't not risk getting cold again.
Sometimes hedgie is not quite warm enough but is not at the point of a full hibernation attempt. Decreased appetite and less activity are two signs hedgie is not warm enough. His body may feel slightly cool but he will still be responsive. Sometimes they may be wobbly on their feet and lethargic. Hedgie needs a warmer cage.
DO NOT put hedgie in a bath. This is the worst thing you can do but unfortunately often it's the first thing people think to do. The sudden warm of the water shocks their system. There is risk that hedgie will aspirate some water. Once done hedgie is wet and at even more risk of getting chilled.
Hibernation attempts lower their immune system which leave them open to respiratory infections, mite outbreaks and other diseases. Some wonder if repeated hibernation attempts make the hedgehog more at risk of cancers and other diseases. Hibernation attempts should not be taken lightly.
Don't ever assume your hedgehog will not need a heat source. Most do. If you are not comfortable leaving a heating device on 24/7 or while no one is at home, a hedgehog is not the pet for you.
Tis the season
... for hibernation attempts.
This is a reminder to everyone that if you haven't already done so, to get a heating and lighting system in place for your hedgehog.
Do you have an accurate digital thermostat? This is high priority and nobody can accurately guess the temperature of the hedgehogs cage without one. A thermometer should be one of the first things purchased before you get a hedgehog.
Is the area hedgie is in draft free, away from windows, off floor level and preferably on an inside wall. Regardless of how new your windows are, in front of a window is cooler than away from a window. Floor level is the coldest part of a room. Sitting the cage on a table is a warmer location. Exterior walls are always cooler than an interior wall. Draft zones are near the bottom of stairways, near windows, floor level, near furnace ducts, and near outside doors.
Temperature is important. Although it is generally recommended they need temperatures at or above 73F/23C, this is often not warm enough. Most hedgehogs seem to like 75F/24C but there are some that even this is not warm enough. Each hedgehog is individual and just because it's parents or siblings are comfortable at 73, doesn't mean yours will be. If a breeder tells you their hedgehogs are fine without extra warmth, don't pay attention. Most hedgehogs are not fine at the temperatures most of us keep our houses at.
Using supplemental lighting is a must at this time of year. With shorter days, less intense sunlight, and more dull dark days, light coming in a window is not enough. All that is required is to leave a light on near the cage from 7ish am until 9ish pm. Some people recommend a broad spectrum light and this is fine to use but a regular light will work as well. Some hedgehogs are really light sensitive and will attempt hibernation if they are not getting enough light. Even though they are in their dark hedgie bag or igloo, they still must have adequate light. It's best to either put the light on a timer, or make sure you remember to turn the light on.
Signs of hibernation or being too cool
If your hedgehog is in a full hibernation attempt it will be in a curled up quilly ball and be unresponsive. Cold radiates from their body. This is serious and the hedgehog needs to be warmed up immediately but slowly.
Put hedgie under your clothing so he can warm up slowly. If you have a human heating pad, you can set it on low, lay it on your lap and set hedgie on it. Make sure hedgie is not warming up too quickly. NEVER leave an unresponsive hedgehog on a heating pad or any heating device.
Depending on how long hedgie has been trying to hibernate, he may come out of it within a few minutes or it could be half an hour or more. If hedgie is not responding within 45 to 60 minutes of warming, he needs to see a vet immediately. This is an emergency life and death situation.
When hedgie first comes out of it, he will be wobbly on his feet and be a bit disoriented. This should go away fairly soon.
After hedgie has attempted hibernation, his cage needs to be kept a couple of degrees warmer. The chance of him attempting it again within the next week or two is high so make sure he doesn't not risk getting cold again.
Sometimes hedgie is not quite warm enough but is not at the point of a full hibernation attempt. Decreased appetite and less activity are two signs hedgie is not warm enough. His body may feel slightly cool but he will still be responsive. Sometimes they may be wobbly on their feet and lethargic. Hedgie needs a warmer cage.
DO NOT put hedgie in a bath. This is the worst thing you can do but unfortunately often it's the first thing people think to do. The sudden warm of the water shocks their system. There is risk that hedgie will aspirate some water. Once done hedgie is wet and at even more risk of getting chilled.
Hibernation attempts lower their immune system which leave them open to respiratory infections, mite outbreaks and other diseases. Some wonder if repeated hibernation attempts make the hedgehog more at risk of cancers and other diseases. Hibernation attempts should not be taken lightly.
Don't ever assume your hedgehog will not need a heat source. Most do. If you are not comfortable leaving a heating device on 24/7 or while no one is at home, a hedgehog is not the pet for you.

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Admin...sticky please!!!!

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
pam we try not the steal other ppls work
but im sure you have no concept of that been for liverpool!
but im sure you have no concept of that been for liverpool!


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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Good post ..x

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
i can tell u havent been to uni rich. its not stealing if you use your sources! plus i have told nancy i have copied it to here
quote:
pammie wrote:
fab post nancy, i hope you dont mind i have copied this to the uk site (not as my own but said it was from here) x
Nancy:
That's perfectly fine.
so
quote:
pammie wrote:
fab post nancy, i hope you dont mind i have copied this to the uk site (not as my own but said it was from here) x
Nancy:
That's perfectly fine.
so

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
lol pammie

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Karma given for an informative post

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Excellant pammie
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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
great pam!

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Lot's of useful info there...

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
opps! clearly didnt no what that little green thing a the side was, and i think ive just said that i dont like this post! which i do i like it a lot, its very helpful for a newbie like meself!

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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
TOP POST PAM
karma to you
karma to you
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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
good post which now leads e to a couple of questions: i dont yet have a hedgy and am on here to learn all i can on the correct care of a hedgs, so on the topic, is the thermostat the same one used for reptiles, can you use a broad spectrum bulb in an ordenery light fitting, and do they have diffrent wattage and if so what one will i need, and if i use an ordenery light bulb what wattage should this be, and lastly can i use one of them fleese heat pads, ( the type u pop in the mic and stay warm up to 10 hours ), and if so am i best just using it just of an evening when the temp starts to drop and then take it out in the morning, think thats it for now though if anyone else can add any tips on keeping hedgys warm that would be very welcome also, thanks
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Re: HIBERNATION...what should you do?
Hey Paulakim,
For heating you can use the same thermostats as for reps, but you will need a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) bulb not a light bulb, as they needs the heat but not the light as that confuses their day/night cycles. (Incidentally I'm not sure whether the red-light bulbs that some people use for nocturnal reps would also be ok for hedgies? I know red light doesn't bother most nocturnal animals which is why they're often used in zoos so the public can still see things that are asleep, but not heard of anyone using them for hedgies so far). Or some people use heat mats on a thermostat (again, similar to reps), depending on the type of enclosure etc.
A lot of people have the microwave heat pads, some people use them every night some just if it's got very cold etc, depends really on your temps at home and your hedgie (some seem more sensitive to the cold than others and need additional heat).
I use a 250W CHE on a stat over a zoozone cage (well I did until the bulb broke and I had to use my old 150W, but my new bulb has just arrived
), that seems to work pretty well. Watch where you put the probe for the stat and thermometer, hedgies aren't gnawers like rodents are but you never know whether they might give it a bit of nibble so try and tape/fix it a little out of hedgies way.
Hope that kinda helps.........
For heating you can use the same thermostats as for reps, but you will need a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) bulb not a light bulb, as they needs the heat but not the light as that confuses their day/night cycles. (Incidentally I'm not sure whether the red-light bulbs that some people use for nocturnal reps would also be ok for hedgies? I know red light doesn't bother most nocturnal animals which is why they're often used in zoos so the public can still see things that are asleep, but not heard of anyone using them for hedgies so far). Or some people use heat mats on a thermostat (again, similar to reps), depending on the type of enclosure etc.
A lot of people have the microwave heat pads, some people use them every night some just if it's got very cold etc, depends really on your temps at home and your hedgie (some seem more sensitive to the cold than others and need additional heat).
I use a 250W CHE on a stat over a zoozone cage (well I did until the bulb broke and I had to use my old 150W, but my new bulb has just arrived
), that seems to work pretty well. Watch where you put the probe for the stat and thermometer, hedgies aren't gnawers like rodents are but you never know whether they might give it a bit of nibble so try and tape/fix it a little out of hedgies way. Hope that kinda helps.........

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thank you...
Thank you so much for this hibination info!
We got Audrey out this evening to find her curled up, unresponsive, cold and not even trying to eat a meal worm - her fave thing in the world!
After realising she was cold we warmed her up with blanket and hugs and true to form the relaxed and woke up quite quickly. But once we'd put her back home again she was wobbling all over the place -
- what was wrong with her?!
So it was reasuring to hear that this is quite normal after a hibination attempt and we're now just keeping an eye on her to make sure she resumes "normal practice" before we go to bed.
Many thanks again for the info,
kazz xx
We got Audrey out this evening to find her curled up, unresponsive, cold and not even trying to eat a meal worm - her fave thing in the world!
After realising she was cold we warmed her up with blanket and hugs and true to form the relaxed and woke up quite quickly. But once we'd put her back home again she was wobbling all over the place -
- what was wrong with her?!So it was reasuring to hear that this is quite normal after a hibination attempt and we're now just keeping an eye on her to make sure she resumes "normal practice" before we go to bed.
Many thanks again for the info,
kazz xx

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